Save The Dolls
SEWING TIPS

Please note:  The hints and suggestions that follow are ideas that I have developed over the years, not only by trial and error, but from instruction sheets, books, and correspondence over the Internet.   For me, they make sewing doll clothes a little easier, faster, and sometimes save a little money.  There are many shortcuts. They are not meant for sewing clothes for collectible dolls. In some cases, you could call them “quick and dirty,” but I feel they still produce nice looking garments that wear well over time, and often are easier to get on and off the dolls. When I am sewing I want to do a good job, but I don’t want to spend too much time on any one doll.  I want to finish as many as I can by the time Christmas rolls around.  

Some of the tips listed below were submitted by visitors to this site, and I would like to thank them.  I would love to hear from others who have their own short cuts, ideas, and contributions.  It would be nice if  this became a web site to share ideas, as well as to encourage others to take up this wonderful hobby.  Constructive criticism or corrections are always welcomed, as well as questions if something is not clear.

Fabric:   The best fabrics to use are light or medium weight, like cotton or cotton blends. Also, if they are lightweight, you can use wool, polyester, fleece, or terry cloth.  They create less bulk. Avoid loose weaves or fabrics that ravel easily. Knits are nice, if you are comfortable sewing on them, because they are very forgiving and do not ravel. They also stretch and are easy to get on and off the doll.  Nightgowns are nice out of seersucker, brushed tricot, or flannel. Bodices and bonnets can be made of pique. Don't try to use old jeans, tapestry samples, or heavy terry cloth. All kinds of silkies and velvet-like fabrics are great for Barbies - if they are light weight and not too slippery. Fabrics should be washable and pre-washed before sewing.   

Construction:

Finishing raw edges:  Use a zig-zag stitch or a pinking shears.  Zig-zag on armscyes. It flattens the seam allowance as well as finishes it. You can clip the curves either before or after; the zigzag stays in quite nicely.  Shorter seams (like crotch seams on Barbie pants and side seams on just about any doll clothes)  trim with pinking shears.  It works on curved seams like a modified method of clipping.

If fabric frays excessively, run a tiny bead of Fray Check along the edge to seal it.  This takes a little practice so as not to get too much, or it can bleed further into the fabric.

Necklines:  I usually avoid collars, and simply bind the neckline with bias tape or face the neck edge.  You can make your own facing pattern from the bodice pattern if one is not included.  Another alternative for necklines is to use ribbing, especially on knit garments. If the fabric is stretchy (or large enough to stretch out before finishing), you may want to staystitch in about 1/8" from the raw edge.

Binding: When applying binding to necks or armholes, I usually follow these steps, using bias binding that is not pre-folded:

1. Place bias tape along the edge of the piece you are binding (e.g. neckline, armhole).  Have right sides together and match the raw edges.

2. Sew them together.

3. Trim the raw edges close to the stitching if you want only a little of the binding to show.  Clip the raw edges or trim with pinking shears.

4. Turn the binding to the inside (wrong side) of the garment, wrapping it around the raw edges.  Pin in place.

5. On the right side of the garment, stitch in the ditch. 

This is a much easier and faster method for me than trying to fold under the raw edge of the binding on the inside. It doesn’t have to have a finished edge on the inside, and it is a lot less bulky without that extra fold.   Since it is on the bias, it won’t ravel.  I usually make my own tape and cut it wider than I need.  Then after it is turned and stitched in the ditch, I trim the tape on the inside, close to the stitching. 

I find this method (of using bias binding) to finish curved raw edges of a garment much easier and nicer looking than trying to fold under 1/4” of the fabric, as most patterns instruct you to do.  It is especially true when sewing on tiny pattern pieces for Barbie dolls.

Making your own bias tape is less expensive than buying it.  It can be a solid color or a print  to match or coordinate with the garment. 

See Trim under SOURCES for mail order houses that sell binding by the yard. I buy the widest (1”), unfolded.

Fig. A

Sleeves:  If the garment is sleeveless, you can either (1) line the whole bodice, (2) make facings for the armholes, or (3) add  bias binding.  Sleeveless dresses or tops are easier to fit, although not always as cute as a real sleeve.  One way to give the look of a sleeve is to add a ruffle,  gathered lace or eyelet (see Fig. A and Photo 1). When dolls have cloth arms,  however,  long sleeves look the best.

Photo 1

Photo 2

Raglan sleeves are usually easier to fit than set-in sleeves (see Fig. B).  Raglan sleeves in a doll pattern often have a tuck or dart at the shoulder to give extra room.   A nice look is to have the bodice a different color from the raglan sleeves and skirt. (See Photo 2.)

Fig. B

For easy sleeve and armhole alterations, see Fitting under PATTERNS.

Constructing a bodice that is not a raglan:

1. Sew front & back bodices together at the shoulders. Check fit. Finish raw edges at the shoulder seams or press raw edges toward the back and top stitch.

2. Sew in the sleeves (or ruffle), using the flat method. Finish raw edges.

3. Try on the doll to see where the sleeves should be hemmed.

4. Hem the sleeves and add trim or lace.

5. Bind the neck edge (see Binding, under Construction, above).

6. Sew the underarm and side seam. Finish raw edges.

7. Attach to the gathered skirt. Finish the raw edges.

8. Hem skirt.

9. Finish back closure (see Closures below).

Closures:  For years, I laboriously sewed on tiny buttons, snaps, or hooks and eyes.  This is no longer the case with VELCRO on the market.   I use the newer, soft type (“Soft & Flexible”)  which is 5/8” wide.  I don’t care for the type that has glue on the back. I don’t  think it holds and it also gums up the needle. I cut a piece the size needed.  Sometimes this  means cutting it to a width of 3/8”  -- especially for Barbie dolls.  Other times the full width (5/8”) is perfect.   The length varies, but seldom less than 1”.  (On the other hand, other sewers use longer pieces of Velcro, perhaps cut in half lengthwise, and extend it down the entire back. They feel this avoids gaps and puckers.)

When there is a back opening to a garment, I always extend the pattern piece 3/4” or more (see Fig. C).  This extra fabric allows for two folds of the fabric when finishing the back, so that there are three layers of fabric wide enough (at least 5/8”) when sewing on the Velcro.  There is a lot of stress in this area when dressing and undressing the doll.  I save old needles (such as 90’s) to use when sewing on the Velcro.  I  stitch around the four edges and a little into the middle, back stitching at the beginning and end (see Fig. D).  One lady suggested using a small stitch when sewing Velcro.

Fig. C

Fig. D

Shortcuts:

Gathered sleeves and pant legs:   Whether they are long or short, I seldom gather the hems of  sleeves or pants with elastic.  It does look nicer, but it is extra work and makes it more difficult to put the garment on.  I just leave it straight, without gathers.  In fact, sometimes I widen the sleeve or pant leg a bit.  Adding trim or ruffled lace can be just as nice as the gathered, elasticized finish (see Fig. E, F and Photo 3 ).

Ruffles:  Gathered eyelet or lace can be used to replace a gathered ruffle made from fabric.  It is much faster, easier, and often prettier.

Clipping curves:  Pinking shears are great for this.

Serging: I sew all seams on the sewing machine and then serge with a 3-thread to finish the raw edges.  I use 3 threads because it is a narrower stitch width than 4 threads, and a little less bulky.   Before I had my serger I usually zigzagged the raw edges.  My method is to sew a seam, try it on the doll, serge the raw edges, press, sew the next seam, try it on the doll, serge the raw edges, and so on.  I also serge raw edges that are going to be turned up (as for a hem) or down (as for a casing).  Then I turn on the fold line once & stitch down with the sewing machine, sewing over the serger stitches. Thus it is folded only once and avoids the thickness that occurs when you fold over twice to enclose a raw edge.

Selvedge:  If the hem of the skirt is cut on the straight-of-grain, cut the fold line along the selvedge.  Use that as the finished edge.

Thread: If you do not have lots of color threads to match various fabrics and trims (such as rick rack), consider keeping a spool of invisible (nylon) thread on hand. (However, it may not be OK to use a very hot iron with it.) One experienced sewer of doll clothes uses invisible thread on top and fancy, expensive bobbin/lingerie thread on the bobbin. It is very fine, almost invisible, and more thread can be wound on one bobbin.

Waist: Place a ribbon across the front of the dress at the waist and secure with small appliques or bows at each side seam. Leave the ends loose to pull in fullness and tie in back.

Pants: Pull-on pants/slacks (with elastic inserted into a fold-down casing at the waist) are easier to make than those with a separate waistband.

Fleece: Make jackets, vests, robes out of fleece. Collars can be one layer, and edges don't have to be finished since they won't ravel.

Recycling: A great tip that was submitted follows. Buy inexpensive baby dresses on sale or second hand, ones with nice fabric and trim. Lay bodice front pattern on the dress, with the waist seams matching. Cut it out, including the attached skirt, continuing down at an outward slant, until you reach the appropriate length, including fabric for a hem. On the back, use two pieces of the back pattern, pinned together and overlapping as if closed. Close the back of the dress and lay the pieces on the back, with waist seams matching. Cut out (as above), including the attached skirt, to the proper length. Sometimes you can reuse the buttons and buttonholes already on the dress. Trim the neckline with bias tape. Place sleeve patterns on old sleeves, taking advantage of hem or lace already on the edge. Then sew in the sleeves, sew up the side seams and underarms, and hem.

Sweaters from Sweaters:   Another great tip submitted was to recycle RTW sweaters. They can be used as fabric to make doll sweaters or coats, if the knit is tight and in proportion to the size of the doll. Just pin pattern pieces to wrong side of sweater and cut out. With the tissue still pinned to the knit, sew pieces together. You can slit the tissue and just leave enough along seam edges to sew on, then tear along perforations after stitching, to remove it.  The paper prevents stretching. Construct as a bodice (shoulders, then sleeves and sides). Remove paper and overcast seams, hem, or trim with bias binding or ribbon. If using ribbon or binding, leave extra lengths in front to tie at neckline, rather than making buttonholes. Or sometimes if the ribbing is not too bulky you can use it at the hem, neck or wrists when cutting out. Matching hats or caps could also be made. (Again, a great tip that I am anxious to try.)

Nice Details: 

Pinafore:  If you want the look of a pinafore, you don’t have to make a separate garment.  After finishing the sides and hem of the pinafore skirt, just pin it to the regular skirt at the waist (raw edges together), before either has been gathered.  Then gather them together before sewing them (as one piece) to the bodice. If you want it to have "straps", you can insert some eyelet from the front waist seam to the shoulder or back waist seams. (See Photos 6 and 7.)

Photo 6	Photo 7

Fringe: Think about making a fringe on some fabrics.  See Photo 8 (below), with chambray skirt and purse to match.

Hearts: Small embroidered heart appliques can be sewn onto soft-bodied dolls.  (See Photo 9.)  (They are available from Newark Dressmaker Supply. See Fabric under SOURCES for location.)

Photo 8	Photo 9

Savings:

Fabric: If you do not have enough fabric for an entire garment, combine scraps and use a coordinating fabric for a top or bodice to a dress, bib to slacks, or sleeves to a bodice. If your fabric is not quite wide enough for a full gathered skirt, put fewer gathers in the back. Scraps can also be cut into strips and used for trim. Also save very small ones (2 or 2 ½" squares) for quilts.

Trim:  If you do not have enough lace or trim to go around the entire gathered skirt, consider sewing it only on the front and catching it into the side seams.  If there are no side seams, just fold under the raw edges of the trim about 1/4”, where the side seam would be, and stitch them down when you sew the trim to the skirt.

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